Waves on Water of Variable Depth

Inhaltsverzeichnis

• Summary.
• Some classical water-wave problems in varying depth.
• Linear transport methods for long surface waves in canals, bays and oceans.
• Diffraction of gravity waves by ray methods.
• Experimental studies of wave refraction.
• Survey of theoretical research into tsunamis and observations of actual tsunamis in Japan.
• Numerical simulation of tsunami generation and propagation in the ocean with a real bathymetry.
• Local behaviour of tsunamis.
• Cylindrical solitary waves.
• Shoaling waves : Numerical solution of exact equations.
• Wave-wave interactions near the shore.
• Surf and run-up.
• Laboratory study of a stationary oblique plunging breaker for surfboard testing.
• On breaking waves.
• The dynamics of waves on currents over a weakly varying bed.
• Finite-amplitude waves on non-uniform currents.
• Triple roots and cusped caustics for surface gravity waves.
• Ondes internes evanescentes a l'infini dans un milieu liquide stratifie en rotation.
• The interaction of surface and internal tides with boundary currents.
• Along the strait in thirty six days.
• Difframon of shelf waves by an irregular coast-line.
• The non-linear generation of shelf waves.
• Resonance of shelf waves near islands.
• Nonlinear aspects of shelf waves and mean currents.
• Continental shelf waves in the presence of a sheared geostrophic current.
• Generation of shelf waves on the East Australian coast by wind stress.
• Long waves on the Southern Ocean.